Instructions and Tips for Using Moulds

Melt paraffin wax in a metal container that is nested inside another container which contains hot water over a heat source, e.g. a tin inside a pan of heated water (see Fig. 1). If making larger candles you'll need larger scale equipment that uses the same principle. Do not heat wax directly otherwise it will get too hot.
Add 10% of stearin to the paraffin wax - this improves colour response of dyes in wax but most importantly it causes slight shrinkage in wax when it sets so that candle is easier to remove from mould. Stearin or another mould release agent is vital for long pillar ('Church') candles, otherwise candles will be impossible to release from the mould.
Prepare wicks for use by first dipping them in molten wax ('priming' them), then laying them out straight to cool and harden.
Push primed wick up through the hole in the base of the mould from below. Tie this end around a small stick which rests across the top of the mould, position the stick in the notches cut in the rim.
Pull the wick gently from below to ensure it is straight (i.e. pull from below the base). Then surround the protruding wick with mould seal putty or use Blue-Tak.
Cut the wick, leaving at least 1" (2.5cm) protruding from the wick hole (this will be the wick at the top of the candle). (See Fig. 2).

Fig. 2

If possible, gently heat the mould a little before pouring in hot wax. Use a hot air gun on a low heat setting or use a hair dryer. This improves the finish on the candle.
Decant melted wax into a pouring jug with a spout to fill the mould. Don't pour wax straight into the mould from the melting container as this may cause spills and water may drip into the mould.
Fill mould to just below the rim and avoid wax reaching the height of the wick stick.
Gently tap or vibrate the mould for a short while to dislodge bubbles inside.
For improved shiny surface, faster cooling and easier release from the mould, a water bath is recommended. Lower the filled mould into a tub of water. The water should be level with the height of the wax inside the mould. Use gloves if mould is too hot to handle. Place a weight on top of the mould if it 'floats' off bottom of tub. Water should not be too cold.
Keep an eye on the level of the wax as it sets. As it cools the centre will drop and a skin will form. This skin should be regularly pierced and more molten wax poured into the cavity. This may need doing several times, depending on size of candle. Don't ever top up above the height of original wax fill otherwise candle will be difficult to remove.
Once the wax level ceases to drop the mould must be left to cool completely. If possible leave over-night or at least for several hours.
When completely cooled, remove mould seal from wick and undo wick from stick. Turn mould over and the candle should slide out of the mould (place a folded cloth below to prevent damage to candle).

Fig. 1

If the candle does not slip straight out, try gently tapping the mould all over with a very small rubber mallet or a wooden spoon or similar. Be extremely careful not to dent the top edge of the mould opening by banging the mould down etc.
If the candle will still not release, try cooling the mould in a fridge for a short while (don't freeze or cool too fast or the candle will crack).
If candle still will not come out then as a last resort you can immerse the mould in hot water (wait until mould is at room temperature if mould has been cooled, to avoid thermal shock). This will ruin the candle but it will come out. The mould will need thorough cleaning before re-using if you had to do this. Clean mould with liquid paraffin or denatured alcohol and a clean cloth.
To prevent problems; Always use stearin or another release agent in your wax. Try coating inside of mould with thin coat of oil or mould-release. Try pouring wax when it is hotter to get more contraction when it sets. Avoid over-filling when topping-up. Beeswax is particularly sticky and may cause real difficulties with release unless proper procedures are followed.
After removal from the mould, the base of the candle can be tidied up (levelled) by placing on a heated surface such as a heated plate or sheet of metal or on a sheet of cooking foil placed inside a heated pan etc. Move the candle around gently until base is flat.
Small imperfections on the candle surface or edges can be polished out by gently rubbing with a nylon stocking. Alternatively the candle can be dipped in a liquid wax to give a decoration or glazed finish which will hide all minor faults.
Longer moulds are more difficult for beginners to achieve perfect results. It is recommended that experience is first gained with smaller moulds.

Faults on Candle
Cracks in candle may be caused by cooling too quickly (in fridge etc.), water bath too cold, or topping-up wax was too hot.
Frosty effect or horizontal lines on surface may be caused if wax was poured too cool.
Bubbles and pin holes on top of candle may be result of mould being too cold when wax was poured in - try preheating mould with hot / warm air. Applying a vibrating device to side of mould after pouring wax will help.

Maintenance and Care of Mould
Store mould upside down to keep dust out.
Do not drop, knock or dent the mould.
Avoid immersing a very cold mould in very hot water or vice versa.
Always clean spilt wax from outside of mould, use liquid paraffin or denatured alcohol.
Don't use a metal implement to scrape wax from mould.
Use warm water and soap to clean mould before first use if necessary. Rinse thoroughly.
Don't store a mould in damp or wet conditions as this may cause heavy oxidation of surface.
These moulds are for making wax candles. Do not use to mould any other material or for any other purpose. If used correctly they will give long trouble-free use.